While we are not trying to encourage more hedgehog breeders, we would like to encourage more responsible hedgehog breeding, which includes tracking pedigrees, and genetic issues (WHS), and breeding for quality for the species - not quantity. 

Therefore, we wanted to put some basic hedgehog breeding dos and don'ts together as a safe place for breeders to reference.  If you have additional questions, please do not hesitate to reach out to us. My place is not to judge, but to help improve the quality of life of hedgehogs. 

Before you get into hedgehog breeding you should ask yourself the following questions to make sure you are physically, mentally, and financially prepared.

• Why do you want to breed hedgehogs? Your why may include how you can help hedgehogs or help educate others about hedgehogs. If your why is to make money or does not have the best interest of the hedgehog at heart, then hedgehog breeding is not right for you at this time.
• Do you know hedgehogs? Do you have extensive experience owning a hedgehog as a pet? That includes proper care, living environments, and access to an exotic vet with hedgehog experience. You should have years of hedgehog ownership experience before venturing into breeding hedgehogs. 
• Do you have the time? Hedgehogs require and deserve daily socialization in addition to their basic care. When there are hoglets as well as adults, there is an additional level of socialization. If a mom abandons her litter or a hoglet, you will then need to bottle/syringe feed that baby each hour (throughout the night), exotic vet visits and more. Additionally you will need to provide a professional level of communication to potential hedgehog owners.
• Do you have the space? Hedgehogs require quite a bit of space. At a minimum, I recommend the 110qt Sterlite containers for each hedgehog. These take up at least 6 sq feet. You will also need a separate cage for each adult, as well as one for each litter after they are weaned from mom before they're ready for their new homes. 
• Do you have the emotional energy? Hoglets are absolutely adorable, that is true. However, there are times when litters are abandoned, moms are stressed out and mutilate their young, or illness/defects happen. It is absolutely heartbreaking. Even when you do everything right, things sometimes go wrong and it can take an emotional toll. 
• Do you have the finances? Quality hedgehogs that are pedigreed typically are higher cost than your backyard breeders. Please, do not breed or purchase a hedgehog that is not from a reputable breeder and/or that does not have a pedigree. Additionally, if something goes wrong with a mother and/or her litter, are you financially equipped to take them to the exotic vet to be treated?
• What if you can't find homes for the hedgehog babies? Are you prepared to keep and care for any babies that do not find homes? Note: You cannot sell hedgehogs (or any live animals) on Facebook. You will need a separate website for your hedgehog breeding program.
• Do you know the rules and laws in regards to breeding and selling hedgehogs? Are hedgehogs legal where you live? How many hedgehogs do you plan to have? Keep in mind that you cannot have more than four breeding females without being USDA licensed. We strongly recommend first-time breeders only sticking to one breeding female and growing a herd after experienced is gained.

Before you breed:

• DO track pedigrees and calculate coefficient of inbreeding (COI) before pairing any male and female, any pair with a COI higher than 5% should not be mated
• DO make sure both the male and female are healthy and have friendly temperaments
• DO NOT breed a female before she is 6 months old (a male should be 5 months old at least)
• DO NOT breed a female for the first time after she is over a year old
• DO NOT breed a female more than 2 times a year
• DO retire females that are not in good health, are too stressed by being mothers, or over the age of 2.5/3 years old (males should retire by age 3)

During the mating process:

• DO prepare the cage for mating by removing the wheel
• DO keep an eye/ear out for any aggressive interaction between the male and female (squeaks are normal, but should not be distressed). If the interaction turns aggressive, separate the pair into their own cages and try again later, with supervision. If aggressive behavior continues, the pair may not be a good match.
• DO NOT leave hedgehogs together alone if aggressive behavior is displayed
• DO separate hedgehogs into their own cage after mating period

Preparing for Hoglets:

• DO provide a quiet, calm environment for the female's cage (free of loud noises, drafts, regular visitors); remove any stressors for the hedgehog
• DO NOT peek at babies or handle hoglets before 10 days old (in the event that a hoglet has been pushed out of the nest, you may calmly, quietly use a clean spoon to scoop up the hoglet and slowly place the hoglet in or next to the entrance to the nest)
• DO wait until the hoglets are at least two weeks old before handling, start with very brief touching to gauge the female's reaction, and work up to handling for longer amounts of time
• DO provide ample food and water in the cage, especially when the hoglets begin to eat solids and drink from the water bottle
• DO consult an exotic vet with hedgehog experience for any issues/concerns with mother and/or babies

Weaning Hoglets:

• DO keep hoglets with mom until at least 6 weeks old
• DO monitor hoglets an additional week after separating from mother to monitor eating, drinking, and gaining healthy weight
• DO separate male and female hoglets after 8 weeks old

Tip: if you are concerned about monitoring the mating process and/or the litters, you may find it useful to install an indoor camera (i.e. Nest camera) in the room where the hedgehogs live. Please note, do not place the camera or any cords directly in the cage.

• Mate hedgehogs | Place hedgehogs together in one cage, with the wheel removed, for approximately 3-5 days. This timing may vary, but we recommend at least one overnight session (this is when hedgehogs are awake), and no longer than a week. Also note, if aggressive behavior is displayed, separate the pair and do not leave them unattended. You may take a couple days off and try again if you are unsure if the breeding was successful. Do not place the male and female together between 30-42 days after the first day of the initial mating period in the event that the female is, in fact, pregnant.
• Gestation | Gestation is approximately 35 days, which means if the breeding was successful, in about 5 weeks the litter will be born. At about 3-4 weeks after mating, make sure the cage is properly ready for birth by removing the wheel and providing sufficient nest location options (hut, bedding, blankets, etc). 
• Birth | As the female approaches birth, she will possibly eat less and be less active. Do not disturb her and limit handling. A stressed female may result in adverse outcomes for her litter. If you hear the female in the process of giving birth, or hear squeaks, it is best to leave her alone and leave the room. (See my comment above about an indoor camera pointed at the cage (NOT in the cage) if you want to monitor the situation). Litter sizes vary, but the average litter is typically 3-5 hoglets. 
• 10 days old - Peek in Nest| IF the mother is not stressed and taking good care of the hoglets, you may gradually begin to peek in the nest. We recommend waiting until mother is out of the nest either eating, drinking, or napping before you peek into the nest. Make it brief.
• 2 weeks - Handle Hoglets | Start with very gently touching the backs of the hoglets and see how the mother reacts. If she gets stressed at any time, leave the litter alone and leave the room. If touching goes well, the next day or two, you may try handling the hoglets very briefly. Gradually, you can work up to socializing the hoglets more each day.
• 6 weeks old - Wean from Mom | By six weeks old, the hoglets should be eating solid food and drinking from the water bottle. (If they are not, please keep them with mother and monitor closely.) Place the litter in their own cage, including a food bowl, water bottle, hiding place (igloo), but no wheel. Once the litter is in their own cage and the female is the only one in her cage, you may return her wheel. Do not wean the litter from the mother before they are six weeks old. 
• 7 weeks old - Ready for New Homes | After a week of monitoring away from mom, if the hoglets are continuing to eat, drink, and gain weight, they are ready for new homes. The hoglets should remain in your care until at least seven weeks old, do not send them to new homes before then - even as tempting as holiday gifts or travel may be. 
• 8 weeks old - Separate Females & Males | If you have hoglets still in your care at eight weeks old, be sure to separate any males and females. While the males likely aren't capable of impregnating their sisters, they can be annoying and aggressive trying to mount them. 

A few notes:

• Healthy females should not be bred more than twice a year (wait 5.5-6 months between matings)
• Not all females are suited to be mothers. Signs that your female should be retired are very small litters (1 hoglet), overly stressed at giving birth/raising young, mutilating/killing hoglets, and abandoning litters.

Please note, this is not a comprehensive guide to hedgehog breeding. It does not replace mentorship or first-hand experience. It is meant to highlight very basic dos and don'ts of hedgehog breeding based on our experience over the past 14+ years. What other questions do you have? 

If you're an experienced breeder, what would you add?

First, we start with the base color. The base color is the color of the skin, mask, ears, and arms/legs. Each color can also range from light to dark versions of that color (for example, light gray to dark gray). 

Note: Albino is a recessive gene that means the hedgehog lacks pigmentation. The skin is pink, eyes are red, and quills are white. 

Some hedgehogs have a special pattern with their quills. This typically ranges from snowflake to pinto to all-white. The patterns also vary depending on how much pattern is present. For example, minimum pinto, to reverse pinto or snowflake and high snowflake.

Facial markings indicate the pattern on a hedgehog's face, nose, eyes, and/or ears. As you can imagine, there are many variations, so we have included the most common facial markings.

Another great resource for hedgehog colors is the International Hedgehog Association, where there are pictures of many of the color combinations. 

What colors, patterns, and facial markings are we missing? What is the most unique color/pattern combo you've seen?

Here are some tips & tricks to help your hedgehog become more comfortable being handled:

• Share your scent. Leave a small piece of an old worn shirt in their cage with your scent on it (this is also helpful when bringing a new hoglet or hedgehog home)
• Give them an adjustment period. If your hedgehog just arrived home and/or is quilling (getting adult quills and losing baby quills - think of teething!), give the hedgehog some grace. This is a big transition. Try to limit handling for the first week home while they adjust to their new surroundings and/or complete the quilling process.
• Short, daily handling, and build up the amount of time each day. Start with just 30 seconds of calm, secure, handling (no gloves). I recommend holding them next to your body, in your open palms and standing still. The goal is to make them feel  secure and that your scent is associated with safety. If they do not open up, do not poke them around the face or poke at their quills, just gently place them back in their cage after a small amount of time. Gradually work up the amount of time each day and soon they should feel more and more comfortable with you.
• Let them hang out with you while you watch TV, work, etc. Sweatshirts with front pockets are great little hideaways for your hedgehog. After they have adjusted to being home and you have handled them daily, let them lounge in your sweatshirt or a blanket with you on the couch or while you work. 

Please keep in mind, every hedgehog is different and will react differently. Some may always be grumpier than others. This isn't a guaranteed method to help your hedgehog become more friendly, but certainly can help. 

If you're looking for a hedgehog, you also can always ask the breeder how often the babies are handled, and which hoglets in the litter are the most friendly. At Penny's Prickly Pigs, we strive to breed friendly adults, which generally leads to more friendly hoglets. 

Have you had a grumpy hedgehog? What tips and tricks worked for you?

What is the Coefficient of Inbreeding (COI)? The short-version is how closely related an offspring's parents are. Too high of a COI results in negative outcomes for the offspring, and the breed. 

The scientific answer according to Science Direct is, "The coefficient of inbreeding (F) for a child of a consanguineous marriage is the probability that the child receives two alleles at a given locus that are both from the same ancestor and are, thus, identical by descent (autozygous)."

So why does this matter? The higher the COI, the more homozygous an animal's genes would be. Once the COI reaches certain levels, one will begin to see deleterious effects of inbreeding, resulting in loss of vitality in the offspring, smaller litters, higher mortality, and increased genetic defects and mutations (WHS, for example). 

At what level COI do you begin to see these effects? One will begin to see the negative effects of inbreeding at a COI around 5%. Once the COI reaches 10% or higher, these deleterious effects reach the threshold of the "extinction vortex." As stated by the Institute of Canine Biology, "[t]he combined effects of these make 10% the threshold of the 'extinction vortex' - the level of inbreeding at which smaller litters, higher mortality, and expression of genetic defects have a negative effect on the size of the population, and as the population gets smaller the rate of inbreeding goes up, resulting in a negative feedback loop that eventually drives a population to extinction."

How do you calculate the Coefficient of Inbreeding (COI)? As you might expect, the Coefficient of Inbreeding can be calculated with a mathematical formula. "In general, for autosomal loci, the inbreeding coefficient for an individual is F = (½)(n1+n2+1), where n1 and n2 are the numbers of generations separating the individuals in the consanguineous mating from their common ancestor. (This formula assumes that the common ancestor is not inbred.)" - Science Direct

Babydoll Southdown Sheep Breeders Association has a helpful table (see below) with simple examples of inbreeding coefficients.

That formula is too much, is there an easier way? Fortunately NABBSSAR.org has a phenomenal Coefficient of Inbreeding (COI) calculator, which can go up to 12 generations beyond the offspring you're calculating. 

If you already use our free Google Sheets Pedigree Maker & COI Calculator, you can select the hedgehog you want to calculate the COI for on the 'Pedigree 8 GEN' tab, go to the 'Calculate COI' tab, copy the data highlighted, paste on the NABSSAR COI% Calculator website and calculate. Don't worry, more specific instructions are available in the Google Sheet. 

​The calculation of the Coefficient of Inbreeding is only as good as the data you put in. The more expansive your data, the better the calculation. Also, most calculators assume the ancestors are not inbred themselves. In the event the ancestors are inbred, the coefficients will actually be higher than what is displayed.

Like all pets, hedgehogs require specific care and attention including, but not limited to feeding, fresh water, socialization, cage and wheel cleaning, nail trimming, occasional baths and more. Who will be responsible for making sure the hedgehog is taken care of? If your child's interest wanes, are you willing to step up to take care of your pet for the lifespan of the hedgehog (up to 6+ years)? Note: We ask that all minors (under 18) who submit an adoption application, have a supervising adult that is willing to care for the hedgehog for its entire lifespan if the child cannot/does not. 

Ask your child why they want a hedgehog. The response might surprise you! It's important that your child has done the research, knows the appropriate care, and is ready to take on this responsibility for the rest of the hedgehog's life. 

Hedgehogs are not "soft" and "cuddly" per se. They do have quills, designed to be defense mechanisms, so they can be sharp - especially baby quills. Friendly hedgehogs will generally let their quills down after they get used to you. It's important that your hedgehog is socialized regularly, in your hands, without gloves on. If you or your child is too afraid to handle hedgehogs, they are likely not an ideal pet for them at this time. 

There is no one specific right answer for this question. It will come down to your child's level of responsibility and maturity. Typically, I see this stage reached around middle school (or older) depending on the child WITH an attentive supervising adult. I personally, adopted my first hedgehog when I was about 12 years old. 

Ultimately, you know your child best and know your willingness to step in to become the primary caregiver if your child is no longer as interested as the hedgehog deserves. 

What age did you get your first hedgehog? Let us know!

So you've submitted adoption application here, you've been placed on the waiting list, now what?

Below is the method to my madness in contacting the waiting list. Every breeder is different, but this is what I've found to work the best for us. This, of course, is subject to change. 

Note: We do not require a deposit to be placed on the waiting list. We prefer to take a deposit when we know there is a hedgehog available for you and one that is a good fit. 

The process begins when the hoglets are between 3 weeks and 4 weeks old. By then, sex, approximate coloring, and price range is listed online here. 
​

I contact the top individuals who I can guarantee that I have a hoglet available. If they are interested in purchasing one of the available hoglets, they respond by the given deadline (usually within a few days) stating that they are still interested. If they do not respond by the deadline, then I begin contacting individuals on "stand-by" (see below). If an individual would like to remain on the waiting list, but would not like to purchase a hoglet from the current litter, I will bypass them and contact them regarding future litters, and they keep their spot on the waiting list.

While contacting the top of the waiting list, I simultaneously contact the individuals who are next in line, but who I cannot guarantee a hoglet due to the number available. So while the top individuals are getting back to me, I can already know whether or not the next group is still interested in the current litter. This helps make the process move as quickly, and efficiently as possible. As soon as a hedgehog becomes available I contact the individuals on "stand-by" to let them know and proceed with the deposit process. 

*It is very common to be on stand-by and be bumped up to having a hedgehog available for you from that litter, so do not fret if you start on "stand-by."*

I start accepting deposits around when the litter is approximately 4 weeks old. Pick of the litter is determined by the order in which I receive the deposit. If I do not receive a deposit by the deadline given, I begin contacting the next individuals on "stand-by" and we may no longer have a hedgehog available for you from that litter. You will then be placed back on the waiting list and will be contacted about future litters.

Deposits are non-refundable $50 that goes toward the price of the hedgehog. Deposits can be made by Zelle to rachel@pricklypigs.com or cash. Please do not pay a deposit until we say there is a hedgehog available for you. 

This process is repeated until all hedgehogs are placed on hold with a deposit.

When the litter is around 6 weeks old, I start arranging pick-up times for once they are weaned (7-8 weeks). Pick-up is available in Pittsboro, NC. Final payment is due prior to pick up and can be paid via Zelle to rachel@pricklypigs.com or in cash at pick-up. Please bring the exact amount, we will not have change. Then you get to take your new hedgehog home. Don't forget to stay in touch and let me know how they are doing!

If you're interested in being added to our hedgehog waiting list to be notified when  we have a hedgehog available, go ahead and fill out the brief adoption application.

Do you have any other questions on how the waiting list process works? Let us know below.

The day is finally here! Your hedgehog gets to come home. As exciting as it is, you will want to keep in mind that this is also a BIG day for your new companion as well. It can be quite the transition, so your primary goal is to make the hedgehog feel safe, secure, and loved. 

As tempting as it may be to travel with the hedgehog in your lap or with a companion holding him or her on the ride home, it is important that your hedgehog travel in a secure small pet travel carrier. We typically use the one pictured above, but you can also use a smaller clear storage bin with holes in the side or lid or most any variety that has a secure lid. Not only is it safer to travel in a carrier, but they can get quite squirmy suddenly and the last thing you would want would be for your hedgehog to escape your lap and end up in difficult to reach places in your vehicle or worse - under your gas or brake pedal. 

*Optional* To help with the adjustment, it can be nice to see if you can have a small amount of bedding from their previous cage for their travel carrier and transitioned into their new cage, so they have some familiar and comfortable smells around them. You may also leave something that smells like you in their cage. For example, a piece of an old t-shirt. Be sure that it does not have any loose fibers or holes to get stuck in. Monitor any wear and tear on the item and remove after a week or so. 

It is so tempting to just want to cuddle up to your new hedgehog, but you will need to be patient. Your hedgehog went through one of the biggest transitions of their life going from their home with siblings and mother to its new home. For the first week, we recommend minimal interaction other than feeding, water, and brief checks on them. Keep in mind they might be a bit grumpier than normal while they adjust to their new surroundings. Also, depending on their age, they may go through a quilling process losing their baby quills while their adult quills come in, also adding to a bit more unease.

In the first week, try to limit handling so they can adjust and feel safe in their new surroundings. After a week of transition time, you can slowly increase your handling and socialization time with your new hedgehog. 

You're looking at getting a hedgehog as a pet, but are they legal? In most locations, they are legal to own as pets, however there are some exceptions. 

Hedgehogs are currently illegal to own in the following locations:

• California
• Georgia
• Hawaii
• Pennsylvania
• Washington D.C.
• New York City (all 5 boroughs)

The laws are always evolving and changing, so you want to be sure to check laws in your state and local municipalities on owning and traveling with an exotic animal, specifically hedgehogs. 

Unfortunately, we will not sell a hedgehog to you if you are located in any area where owning a hedgehog is illegal. 

Have the laws changed in any of these locations? Are there new locations where hedgehogs are illegal? Let us know!

​You've decided a hedgehog is the right pet for you, but where do you begin to find the perfect hedgehog for you?

Like any pet, you will not want to buy your new family member from just anywhere. 

We realize it can be hard to discern a quality hedgehog breeder from a back-yard breeder, so we've put together some helpful resources on where to look for breeders and questions to ask potential breeders before purchasing your hedgehog. 

First, let's cover where to not find your reputable breeder. I would avoid the following:

• AVOID Craigslist | Unfortunately many of these are scams or back-yard breeders
• AVOID Facebook Marketplace, Facebook groups or Facebook only | Facebook bans the selling of animals on their site. Breeders can have Facebook pages, of course, but the transaction should not take place on Facebook. It's best if the breeder has a legitimate website with more information on their breeding program and available hedgehogs
• AVOID Pet Stores | Most pet stores have very limited information on where their hedgehogs came from, which includes any health information, health guarantees and the like 

So where, then, is the best place to find a breeder?

• Hedgehog Central
• Hedgie List
• NAHHI
• Ask another breeder | If a breeder you trust does not have any hedgehogs available or is not in the location you're in, ask if they know anyone in the area. Many times they do!

Most reputable breeders are happy to answer questions about their breeding programs. If you receive push back, it may not be the best fit. 

Where did you find your breeder? What other questions were helpful when you were looking for a breeder? Is there another great resource for hedgehog breeder listings? Let us know!

It's very important to prepare a proper hedgehog habitat before their arrival. Not all small pet habitats are ideal for hedgehogs, so please see our blog post on How to Prepare a Hedgehog Cage for detailed items, where to purchase them, and things to avoid. 

Putting together your perfect hedgehog cage is only part of the hedgehog environment.

• Maintain temperature between 75-80 degrees Fahrenheit
  • Hedgehogs require warm temperatures between 75-80 degrees, free of drafts. Some people may not want to heat their entire house to 75 degrees, so we recommend supplementing the room where your hedgehogs live with a small space heater. We use this Amazon Basics small space heater. I also like to keep a thermometer near the cage to be sure the temperature is in an appropriate range. I use this bluetooth thermometer that connects with my phone and sends notifications if the temperature is outside of my desired range. 
• Natural Light
  • Hedgehogs, like most living things, like natural light. Since they are nocturnal, it helps for hedgehogs to have natural daytime/nighttime rhythms. Be sure to mimic these times and provide hedgehog adequate time with any supplemental lights off, and lights on if necessary.

It may surprise you to learn that the best diet for hedgehogs is high quality cat food. Thankfully it's nutritionally better (and cheaper! and easier to find!) than "hedgehog food." We feed our hedgehogs Purina ONE chicken flavor cat food.  You can also mix a few types of cat food together to make a blend of proteins. 

Be wary of too many additional treats (mealworms, etc) as hedgehogs can become obese. It is also helpful if you regularly weigh your hedgehog to track any sudden increases or decreases in weight, which can clue you in if there is a hidden health issue going on.

Also, hedgehogs are lactose intolerant, so do not feed your hedgehog milk or dairy. 

In the grand scheme of things, hedgehogs are fairly low maintenance pets. With a dedicated and attentive owner, hedgehogs are easy to rewarding pets. 

• Grooming | Like similar small animals, hedgehogs require regular nail trimmings
• Baths | Occasionally, hedgehogs need baths. We recommend a shallow sink or bathtub. We use a dedicated "hedgehog" toothbrush to gently scrub the quills and gentle baby shampoo. Do not bathe a hedgehog too frequently as it can dry out their skin
• Socialization | To maintain a friendly and fun hedgehog, regular socialization is necessary. We recommend 30 minutes a day, if possible. Fun tip! Hedgehogs love to cuddle in the pockets of sweatshirts if you're watching TV or gaming- just don't forget they're in there!

Hedgehogs do not require routine veterinary care. However, you always want to know your nearest exotic vet BEFORE a need should arise. You also want to make sure that your vet has experience specific to hedgehogs.

Here are some great ways to find your exotic vet. Be sure to call the ones you're interested in and confirm they are experienced with hedgehogs and ask procedures for regular or acute care as well as in case of emergency. Some vets have a different emergency or after-hours phone number. 

• Search Google for exotic vet near me
• Search Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians 
• Ask your local veterinarian for a referral

Our recommended exotic vet in the Raleigh/Durham/Chapel Hill area:
NC State Veterinary Hospital
919-513-6999
Raleigh, NC

You're hanging out with your hedgehog and everything is great. All of a sudden your hedgehog starts "foaming" at the mouth and spitting it onto their quills. Yikes!

No, your hedgehog does not have rabies. No, your hedgehog is not having a seizure. This process is called anointing. When hedgehogs come into contact with new smells and tastes, hedgehogs anoint themselves. Why exactly, we're not sure. It's believed they may be saving that scent for later. 

Either way. Don't fret. This is a completely normal part of hedgehog ownership. 

Note: If there are other concerning things happening with your hedgehog, you should call and consult with your exotic veterinarian. 

What else do you want to know about hedgehog care? Let us know in the comments!

One of the less glamorous parts of hedgehog ownership is cage cleaning, specifically cleaning the wheel. Most hedgehogs spend a lot of time on their wheel, running miles and miles each night. For many hedgehogs, this is a convenient time to also go to the bathroom. So what is the best method for cleaning the wheel?

Note: we recommend regular wipe downs, but even with regular wiping, you will need to do an occasional deep clean to refresh their wheel. 

Step 1: Remove any large chunks and wipe away any liquid
Be sure to scrape off and remove any large chunks of poop or bedding and wipe away any liquid

Step 2: Fill a tub with hot water
Place your wheel(s) in the tub with hot water so that the water fills over the entire wheel. (It is easiest if the wheel is placed flat so you don't have to use as much water)

Step 3: Pour baking soda into the wheel
Time for the baking soda. Pour the baking soda into the wheel. I like to stir it around to make sure it is covering most of the surface. 

Step 4: Pour vinegar into the tub
Flash back to middle school science experiments. Pour a sizeable amount of vinegar (we use white vinegar) into the tub with water and wheel. The concoction should immediately start to bubble like a volcano. 

Optional: Let it soak
For especially difficult to clean wheels, I try to let them soak overnight in the water/vinegar/baking soda mixture. 

Step 5: Scrub wheel
Using a scrubbing brush or sponge, scrub down inside the wheel. Anything remaining on the wheel should easily come off.

Step 6: Dry
Before returning the wheel to the cage, be sure that it is completely dry.

We hope this helps! After having had hedgehogs for over a decade, we've tried numerous ways to clean the wheels and we found this did the trick the best. 

Have you found an easy way to clean your hedgehog wheel? Let us know!

a.co/d/0iHsuAOeYour long-awaited hedgehog is finally ready for his new home. It's always so exciting to bring home a new hedgehog, but do you have everything you need? We've included our checklist, as well as where to purchase, to ensure you have the proper hedgehog set-up. While there are alternative cage, bedding, and hide-away options, we included the options that we've found are the most comfortable and easiest to clean for your new companions. 

The Cage
Recommendation: Sterilite Clear Storage Bin (min. 100 qt)
Available at: Target, Walmart, Amazon
The ideal hedgehog cage is large enough for how active hedgehogs are. They can run miles on their wheel each night! We prefer the Sterilite bins because they are very easy to clean.  Not pictured, but we recommend a well ventilated lid for your cage. You can drill holes in the Sterilite lid to ensure proper airflow. Hedgehogs are capable of climbing and some like to get adventurous if given the chance.

The Wheel
Recommendation: Kaytee Large Comfort Wheel
​Available at: Walmart, Amazon, Local Pet Stores
Hedgehogs run multiple miles at night. Hedgehogs can also be prone to obesity, so it is essential that they have a proper wheel to exercise on. Be sure to get a large wheel with a solid floor. Wire wheels are not safe for hedgehogs as they can get their small feet and toes stuck in between the wires and holes. 

The Bedding
Recommendation: Frisco by Chewy Paper Pellet Cat Litter Unscented (www.chewy.com/frisco-unscented-non-clumping/dp/188098) and Fibercore Eco-Bedding (fibercorellc.com/products/eco-bedding%C2%AE-4-5-lb-bag)
Frisco by Chewy Paper Pellet Cat Litter available at: Chewy
Eco-Bedding available at: Fibercore.com, Tractor Supply Co.
You want a safe and comfortable bedding for your hedgehog. We prefer the Frisco by Chewy Paper Pellet Cat Litter non-clumping unscented cat litter (do not substitute normal cat litter), since it seems to be much more absorbent and odor resistant than when we used shavings. They also enjoy the ECO-Bedding by Fibercore to move around and build nests out of. (Note: if you purchase Eco-Bedding in a 10lb box, it is A LOT of bedding and will last you a very long time for just one hedgehog.) You can also use pine shavings, but do not use cedar shavings or anything with cedar in it as it is toxic to hedgehogs. 

The Hideout
Recommendation: Kaytee Small Animal Igloo - Large
Available at: Walmart, Amazon, Petsmart, Local Pet Stores
Hedgehogs love to be able to burrow, and feel safe during the day. The hideout is an essential part of their habitat. We prefer the plastic igloos since they are durable, easy to clean, and allow for the hedgehog to bring in and remove bedding. Sometimes fabric hideouts can get dirty and fibers may wrap around the hedgehogs legs if they get worn down.

Food & Water
Available at: Walmart, Amazon, Pet Stores
For water, we recommend water bottles and our hoglets will be used to drinking out of a bottle by the time they arrive home. While bowls are fine, hedgehogs love to burrow and often times this leads to dumping out the water and soiling their bedding. Any basic small animal food bowl will do. 

Heat Source & Temperature Monitor
Temperature Controller available at: Amazon
Hedgehogs need their habitat to stay around 75-80 degrees. Since you likely won't keep your entire house this temperature, we recommend using additional heat sources. This may be a heating pad, a ceramic heating lamp, or a small space heater. Please note, all of these heat sources and their wires should be outside of the cage. Also, if using a heating pad, it should not cover the entire base of the cage. In case it gets too hot, your hedgehog needs an area to escape to. 

Just as important as the essential items, there are items that seem like a good idea, but need to be avoided for the safety of your hedgehog. These items include, but are not limited to:

• Cedar bedding: Cedar is toxic to hedgehogs and should not be used as a bedding option
• Wire wheels (wheels with holes on the bottom): Hedgehogs have small feet and toes and can easily get their feet stuck in these wheels, which can cause significant damage and/or break their legs.
• Ramps and climbing structures: Hedgehogs are not natural climbers, although they might try. They are prone to fall off structures and hurt themselves, so make sure there are no ramps or climbing structures in their cage. You'll see this with multi-level cages designed for other animals. Unless the ramps and lofts have walls so there is no way for them to fall off, please avoid.